Apse Mosaic, 1140-1143, Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome
The frescoes from Santa Priscilla earlier in the week
reminded me of some of my other favorite Marian images from Rome. First place
goes to this glorious, glittering semicircular mosaic from the apse of Santa
Maria in Trastevere, one of Rome’s most ancient churches.
Santa Maria in Trastevere may be the first place in Rome
where Mass was celebrated openly. The original 4th century church was
rebuilt in the 12th century by Pope Innocent II and richly decorated in the
Byzantine style. If the frescoes of Santa Priscilla shrouded in darkness and
mystery, whisper to us about the early Christians, the mosaics of Santa Maria are
a shout out from the late medieval Church.
The sumptuous gold background composed of innumerable tiles catches
our eye immediately upon entering the basilica. These “tesserae,” formed of gold leaf fused
between two layers of glass, both reflect and refract light, creating a visual sensation
designed to transport the viewer from the dim light of earth to the glory of
heaven. Prophets and evangelists,
apostles and saints, and a host of Biblical symbols invite us to contemplate
this celestial vision. (Take a few moments to ponder the row of sheep and their
“shepherd.)
At the center of this glimpse of heaven is an image of Jesus
and Mary unprecedented in Roman art. They are dressed in the sumptuous formal
costume of Byzantine monarchs, but their intimate, almost casual position
speaks of a different relationship. Nestled in soft cushions, they sit side by
side on a double-throne (a love seat?) with a carpet at their feet. The face of
Jesus is ruddy and strong, youthful and alive. Mary’s face is softer, older,
and more solemn. As in so many Byzantine icons, Mary points to her son.
Uniquely in this mosaic, Jesus wraps his right arm around his mother’s
shoulders, embracing her, and validating for all eternity the words first spoken
to her at the moment when this mysterious and glorious mingling of heaven and
earth first began: “Do not fear, Mary, for you have found favor with God.”
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